That Luang (Royal Stupa)
City/Region: Vientiane
The Royal Stupa is a symbol of Buddhism and Lao rule and is Laos' most important religious building. The dazzling golden temple and its spire are visible from afar and locals claim that if you have not visited That Luang, you have not visited Laos. The base of the stupa has walkways and stairs connecting the different levels, designed for the faithful to climb. Each level has different architectural features pertaining to Buddhist doctrine. Worshippers stick balls of sticky rice to the walls as a mark of respect to the spirit
of King Setthathirat, who built the shrine in 1566 and whose statue stands in front of the temple. The effects of the setting sun on its golden surface are stunning.
Xiang Khouan (Buddha Park)
City/Region: Vientiane
The site known as Buddha Park is a bizarre collection of Buddhist and Hindu statues scattered around a riverside meadow, dominated by a gigantic reclining Buddha. Hundreds of huge concrete structures that combine Buddhist and Hindu philosophies are spread around representing a variety of deity forms. Fashioned by a purported holy man, the sculpture park was created to spread his beliefs and to reveal to mankind his ideas about the universe.
Address: 15 miles (24km) south of Vientiane
Transport: Bus 14 from Vientiane's main station
Royal Palace (Haw Kham)
City/Region: Luang Prabang
The former Royal Palace, a mixture of French and Lao architecture, is now a museum preserving the possessions of the monarchy. Above the entrance is a three-headed elephant sheltered by the sacred white parasol, the symbol of the Lao monarchy. The most impressive room is the Throne Hall, a dazzling interior of mosaics and mirrors, with displays of royal regalia including glittering swords and the king's own elephant saddle. The museum's most prized possession, the Pha Bang, a golden Buddha image, is housed in a small barred room that was the king's personal shrine. It is the most sacred image in the country, believed to have been crafted in the heavens, and containing miraculous powers of protection over the country.
Wat Xieng Thong (Golden City Temple)
City/Region: Luang Prabang
The most enchanting monastery in the country is the magnificent Golden City Temple at the tip of the peninsula. The graceful, sweeping tiled roof of the main temple is its most impressive feature and the walls are decorated with stencilled gold designs depicting many different traditional tales and, at the rear, a splendid colored glass mosaic illustrating the 'tree of life'. In the peaceful atmosphere of the compound garden are several shelters, housing rare Buddha images and the gilded royal funerary carriage.
Plain of Jars
City/Region: Luang Prabang
The mysterious Plain of Jars in the Xiang Khouang province is an unusual sight. Hundreds of huge solid stone jars lie scattered about the landscape, some weighing up to six tons and about 6 feet (2m) in length. They are believed to be over 2,000 years of age, although their origin or function is unknown. Numerous theories and legends have been fashioned - one such legend states that they were made to ferment rice wine to celebrate a victorious battle against a wicked chieftain in the 6th century, some theories claim they were used as sarcophagi, or funerary urns. They are divided into five major groups, with Thong Hai, or Site 1, the largest and most easily accessible site. The jars lie amid thousands of unexploded mines left behind by the war, and as a result only Sites 1, 2 and 3 are open to visitors; the rest are considered too dangerous and visitors should heed warning signs.
Transport: The site is situated several kilometers south east of Phonsavan, a 30-minute flight from Luang Prabang. From Phonsavan, travelers can take a three-wheel taxi to the site
Pak Ou caves
City/Region: Luang Prabang
About two hours by boat lie the Pak Ou caves, worth a visit even for the scenic boat trip. A lower and upper cave contain an impressive collection of mostly wooden Buddha statues assembled over the centuries by locals and pilgrims. Each year, hundreds of pilgrims come to these caves to add a statue to the growing collection. The upper cave (Tham Theung) is reached by means of a flight of stairs and requires the use of a flashlight, while the lower cave (Tham Thing) is visible from the river.
Transport: Boat from Luang Prabang
Kuang Si falls
City/Region: Luang Prabang
The beautiful multi-tiered Kuang Si falls are worth a trip from Luang Prabang for their refreshing beauty and serenity. Turquoise-green water tumbles over a series of limestone steps and collects in beautiful pools that are surrounded by lush greenery. Walkways lead around the base and to the summit, about 200 feet (61m) up, and there are numerous places to picnic. The falls are about 18 miles (29km) south of Luang Prabang.
2009/10/31
2009/10/30
Laos Travel Tips
There are a few things that you need to know and seriously take into account prior to your visit to Laos. This will make your travel experience much more enjoyable and you will have to best time of your life in Laos.
Visa Matters
Visitors traveling to Laos for the purpose of tourism need a visa. An easy way is to book a tour to Laos with an authorized travel agency abroad who has a formal contact with one of local tour operators. This agency will provide you with the necessary form, enabling you to apply for the visa at your nearest Laos embassy or consulate or you can make contact directly with local tour operators.
If you book a tour to Laos and you are resident of a country that dose not have a Laos embassy or in case of urgency, you can obtain the visa upon arrival only Vattay airport and Friendship Bridge which both are the international border checkpoint in Vientiane. To do so you will need to meet at least some of the following conditions:
- Pay a fee
- Have a return air ticket or a valid visa from a third country.
- Have a confirmation of Hotel in Laos PDR.
- Certificate of a bank statement or a life insurance
Custom - Antique items for example Buddha images and other old artifacts are prohibited to be taken out of Laos. If you have already traveled from neighboring countries, you are advised to declare you belongings to the customs to avoid any problems when leaving Laos.
Health - There are no requirements for immunization before entering Laos. Like other tropical countries, Malaria is a problem in Laos. It is a good idea to prepare some kind of mosquito repellant so that you can use it especially at night.
Dos & Donts
How respect and use your head; Eyes and common sense will guide you well in navigating Laos's culture safely. When in Laos, try and do as the Laos do and remember: don't touch heads, don't lose cool with people, and don't flash your flesh. The rest about manners: Shoes left outside, accepting host's greeting; not upsetting religious feeling. The Laos are friendly and hospitable. A minimum of effort will make your trip smooth and memorable.
Getting Around
The most convenient way of travelling from a province to another is by air with . It has daily flights from Vientiane to almost all of the cities in Laos. There are also regular buses linking cities in the north to the south. However, some parts of the road are still under construction, this makes it difficult especially when travelling in rainny season.
For short trips within town tuk tuk (motorized tricycle) and taxi can be used. There are a number of places that you can rent bicycles so that you can cruise through the city at your convenience.
Seeing and Doing
When traveling in Laos, you should try to visit the important landmarks of the main cities around the country. For example, in Vientiane the landmark is Thatluang stupa, Patuxay, Budha Park..., Each place will give you different feelings from one another. See our highlights.
If you are in Laos at the same time of some religious ceremonies, take some times to see what people are doing. This will give you the best experience of Laos. Some ceremonies or festivals that you should not miss is Lao New Year, Boat Racing Festival, Thatluang Festival and other provincial festivals. See the Event Schedules here.
VANG VIENG, LAOS
Lao women in village near Ang Nam Ngum, Laos largest lake
Vang Vieng (population about 25,000) is located in central southern Laos about a 4 hour bus ride north of the capital city of Vientiane or about 7 hours south of the town of Luang Prabang. If you enter Vang Vieng by bus you will be dropped off on a huge gravel runway on the edge of town.
A brisk several minute walk across the runway will find you in the main part of town. Signs for guesthouses or restaurants call out from almost every single building. You know you are in Vang Vieng when you see the dull rusted corrugated metal roofs of the buildings in stark contrast to the brightly colored 3 wheel Tuk-tuks lined up along the streets.
This is a truly a backpackers city - businesses that cater to backpackers are everywhere. Internet cafes, guesthouses, bars, massage parlors & trekking companies all greet your arrival with welcoming arms. These are all fairly new establishments as backpackers haven't always stayed in Vang Vieng. It is only within the past 5 or 6 years that Vang Vieng has seen such an influx of tourists.
There are people here from all over the world - you can't help but meet travelers!
Vang Vieng is set along the banks of the Nam Song River. In the near distance towering behind Vang Vieng are the most incredible rock formations. They are jagged limestone karsts that tower above the jungle - steep walls which have somehow eluded the jungle's grasp.
In the morning hours a fine mists hovers just above the jungle at the base of these formations. In the evenings they form an incredible back drop for picture taking during the "golden hour."
The following is general information to be aware of when traveling in Vang Vieng. These are arranged in no particular order - they are just some insights Dave wants to pass on from his experience traveling in Vang Vieng.
Money
The Lao "Kip" is the unit of currency for Laos. The kip fluctuates tremendously from week to week. At press time the largest bill in circulation was a 10,000 kip note which as of mid December 2002 was valued at about 80 cents US. As a souvenir to give to friends Dave went to a local bank and purchased several thick "bricks" of bills - each note was valued at 100 kip. He paid 10,000 kip for this brick - far less than what you would spend for actual "play money" in the United States.
Laos recently received its first ATM - this is located in Vientiane, the capital city. Currently its only for local use (it is only tied in to local Lao banks) - its not yet available for tourists. Be sure to take enough cash with you before you enter the country of Laos. When you leave Laos, it can be difficult to exchange Lao kip for other currencies because the Lao kip isn't that desirable. Sometimes along the border you can find
independent money exchangers who will do this for you. Its not impossible to do.
The most common request from children in the small villages on the outskirts of Vang Vieng was for pens. I would recommend taking a healthy supply of writing instruments and giving these out in the small villages.
Electricity is not always on 100% of the time in this town. When I was there it went out for the entire day and came back on around 10pm. From speaking to the locals, this is a common occurrence.
The temperatures were quite mild when I was in Vang Vieng. At night a even a light jacket was nice to have on.
Internet access has substantially improved in the
last few years like it has in
many places in the world. We remember first visiting in 2002 and seeing most of the cafes only using dialup access with many computers strung together in a network! Agg! Sometimes the electricity would go out. I always made a point of saving my emails to a certain directory on the computer just in case the electricity went out while I was working. Sometimes the net would be down - but the cafes did not charge me for using the computer during these times. I found it very interesting to read emails that fellow travelers had saved to the computer and had somehow forgotten to delete before they left.
Many of the more "touristy" restaurants would show movies during the evenings - often the sound was turned up too high and drowned out conversation in the rest of the restaurant. Its easy to avoid these type of restaurants.
Recommended Art Gallery
Vang Vieng does not have many art galleries. The one gallery I did visit was fairly expensive - and many of the framed paintings on the wall were framed in wide bamboo frames (which would make it difficult for packing). The Phixy Silp Art Gallery did have unframed paintings which would be much easier to pack in a back pack. The artist whose work is displayed in this gallery is Vilakone Sisouvanh.
Why Is Everybody Going to Cambodia?
JUST after Christmas in 1859, the French explorer Henri Mouhot left Bangkok to explore the uncharted regions of Indochina. It took him a year of hacking through brush and fending off leopards, leeches and wild elephants before he arrived at Angkor Wat, the jungle-smothered complex of temples deep inside the kingdom of Cambodia. Less than two years later, he died of malaria.
What took Mouhot a year can now be accomplished in little more than an hour, via Bangkok Airways' seven daily flights from the Thai capital to Siem Reap, home base for Angkor expeditions. Mouhot may have had to trudge three hours down a sandy path through dense forest to reach the ruins, but 21st-century visitors have the luxury of everything from tuk-tuks to Land Cruisers to an AS-350 Squirrel helicopter.
And while Mouhot lamented the temples' abandonment, today they are such popular tourist attractions that the measure of an expert Angkor guide is not his knowledge of Hindu and Buddhist cosmology, nor his mastery of English, French and Japanese, but his ability to show visitors the most popular sites - the Bayon, Phnom Bakheng, Ta Prohm and Angkor Wat itself - and have them wondering, at day's end, "Where was everybody else?"
But not all guides are expert at deftly avoiding the tourist crush, and there are frequently days when it seems everybody is in Cambodia. In 2004, international arrivals topped one million for the first time, a figure reached in 2005 by the end of September, according to the Ministry of Tourism.
In almost every part of the country, you can find a conceptually and architecturally ambitious hotel: In mountainous Ratanakiri, there's the Terres Rouges Lodge, a former provincial governor's lakeside residence that has, Time Asia said last July, "the best bar in the middle of nowhere." On the Sanker River in Battambang, Cambodia's second-largest city, there's La Villa, a 1930 house that in October opened as a six-room hotel filled with Art Deco antiques. And sometime this summer, you should be able to head south to Kep and stay at La Villa de Monsieur Thomas, a 1908 oceanfront mansion that's being transformed into a French restaurant ringed with bungalows.
And then there is Angkor Wat. Foreign visitors are flooding in - 690,987 paid entrance fees last year, up from 451,046 in 2004. And while there are no official figures as to how much each spends in Siem Reap, the town's dizzying array of luxury hotels - at least 10 by my count, ranging from the Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor to quirky boutiques like Hôtel de la Paix - testifies to the emergence of a new generation of high-end travelers, who not only demand round-the-clock Khmer massage but are also willing to pay $400 a day to hire a BMW L7 or $1,375 an hour for a helicopter tour.
Cambodia is not alone in its luxury revolution. Since the mid-1990's, the former French colonies of Southeast Asia have made enormous leaps in catering to tourists who prefer plunge pools to bucket showers. From the forests of Laos to the beaches of Vietnam to the ruins of Cambodia, you can find well-conceived, well-outfitted, well-run hotels that will sleep you in style for hundreds of dollars a night.
Change has come at an amazing pace. Take Luang Prabang, in Laos. This tidy hill town feels like a Hollywood set, with painted lamps glowing in French restaurants and brick walkways brightened by a yellow glow emanating from knee-high terra-cotta pots. Even the bare fluorescent tubes draped over lonely late-night streets do their part to make visitors feel as if they've arrived at the end of the world.
But it's not mere atmospherics they've found: Luang Prabang has high-end hotels to house a legion of W-worshipers, with enough bistros and boutiques to keep their credit cards on the verge of meltdown. There are spa treatments to succumb to, and Veuve Clicquot to toast with. This town of just 60,000 people is, almost all of a sudden, a luxury getaway.
Less than a decade ago, there were no hotels with infinity pools, no restaurants serving fricassee of wild boar, no silk merchants who took Visa. (Also, no paved roads.) The foreigners who climbed the 328 steps of Mount Phousi were usually backpackers who sought guidance from Lonely Planet's "Southeast Asia on a Shoestring." Today, the traveler with a Lonely Planet in one hand is likely to have a Mandarina Duck carry-on in the other.
Meanwhile, in Vietnam, well-heeled travelers are making pilgrimages to the Evason Hideaway outside Nha Trang, a coastal town 280 miles northeast of Ho Chi Minh City. The Evason, part of Six Senses, a small Bangkok-based chain of resorts, is without question Vietnam's top resort. The villas are enormous, with private plunge pools and wine cellars (and free Wi-Fi), and rock-star-style privacy is paramount: the mountain-backed resort is accessible only by boat.
The Evason is not Vietnam's sole outpost of escapism. Along its 2,140 miles of coastline, there's La Résidence in Hue, the Life Resort in Hoi An and the Furama in Da Nang. You can tour Ha Long Bay in the Emeraude, a replica of a 1920's steamer, or in the Hai Huong, a reproduction of a classic junk. The Victoria chain has been setting up four-star hotels in unusual inland spots, such as Can Tho, Chau Doc and Sapa. And the Evason is already at work on a second resort, in the southern hill town of Da Lat.
But in a country like Vietnam, still poor despite a vibrant economy, the luxury business is a tricky balancing act: How over the top can you go without seeming to take advantage?
The Evason walks that line with the deftness of a tightrope walker. The 17 villas feel inserted into, not imposed upon, the landscape. Motor vehicles are nowhere to be seen: everyone walks or bikes. Is this eco-tourism? Maybe, but when you're at a wine-tasting in a rock cave, or scraping grilled curried lobster tail from its shell, or spotting parrotfish and sea urchins in the coral-lined bay, it feels like something else entirely.
DESPITE all the changes in Cambodia, the immigration desk at Siem Reap International Airport remains a bastion of indifference. When I passed through in October, 10 officials sat behind the visa counter, wordlessly gazing at a mob of tourists, who were hurriedly filling in application forms, fumbling for passport photos and $20 bills, and in the absence of any signs or personnel to direct them, wondering where to go next.
Outside, however, it was a different story: A guest assistant from Hôtel de la Paix carried my bag through the parking lot - past a new terminal designed to handle 1.5 million passengers a year when it opens this summer - to a Lexus S.U.V. As we drove into town, listening to Morcheeba on the car's iPod Mini, the driver and I discussed development on the airport road: I could remember when it had few hotels and restaurants; he could remember when it had none.
At la Paix, an artfully serene white palace designed by the landscape architect Bill Bensley, another assistant led me into the expansive arts lounge, where I sipped fresh orange juice and split my attention between the movie "Indochine," which was being projected on the wall, and the youthful staff members, who moved about with a surprising sureness of purpose.
Soon, an assistant took me to my room - dark woods, creamy fabrics, functioning Wi-Fi and another iPod - and cheerfully helped me plan my stay: a trip to Angkor Wat (with an "excellence guide," he wrote on his notepad) and, almost as important, a local SIM card for my cellphone ("first thing in the morning"). I wandered to the second-floor pool, which flowed like a river from the spa and down to the courtyard, at whose center grew a knotty ficus. Everywhere: calm. The hotel was aptly named.
This was a Cambodia so far removed from the one I'd encountered when I first visited, in March 1997, that I began to wonder if I was even in the same country. Back then, Cambodia was the Wild West, with Phnom Penh its Deadwood. My hotel was the Morakat, which had two room-service menus, one for food, the other for girls. My spa treatment was an unceremonious ear-cleaning at a Vietnamese-run barber shop. (I still have nightmares.) I dined on streetside fried noodles and went to a pitch-black nightclub, where a friend and I were shown to our table by a tuxedoed midget with an enormous flashlight.
Oh, and the day after I arrived, unidentified assailants threw grenades into a crowd of 200 people demonstrating outside the National Assembly, killing at least 16 and injuring more than 100.
To say that Cambodia has come a long way is to state the obvious. Gone are the Khmer Rouge, the Vietnamese occupation, the United Nations democracy-restoration period and the era of warring prime ministers (the current prime minister, Hun Sen, came out on top in 1997). Angkor Wat has been swept clean of land mines, and it is generally safe to travel city streets at night.
When I visited Siem Reap in December 1999, it was far from bustling, and visitors to the temples could climb atop the rubble of Ta Prohm unbothered by security guards. The Grand, which dates back to 1932, had been renovated and reopened by the Raffles Group only two years before, and Angkor Village was the resort for in-the-know tourists and expatriates who wanted something nicer than a guesthouse.
Now more than 100 hotels serve tourists of all budgets. The Grand has been joined by a Sofitel, Le Meridien and the Sokha Angkor. On the boutique side, Angkor Village must now contend with la Paix, La Résidence d'Angkor, the FCC Angkor, the Shinta Mani and an Aman resort, the Amansara. By the end of this month, the One Hotel plans to open its doors - or, rather, its door: There's just one room, a duplex with flat-screen TV, iBook, Wi-Fi and a whirlpool.
These changes are perhaps hardly surprising, given Angkor Wat's popularity and the increasing adventurousness of luxury travelers.
"People want to take their lifestyle and life standard with them," said Grant Thatcher, the publisher of Luxe City Guides, a series of directories to chic treats in Asia. "People don't want to just sit in a flea-bitten rat hole and get eaten by mosquitoes."
His guides - to silversmiths in Bali, Dutch colonial antiques in Sri Lanka, orchids in Bangkok - are fast becoming indispensable for their up-to-date intelligence (each is reissued every six months) and cheeky, Daily Candy-in-Hong Kong voice. (On the Metropole, in Hanoi: "This grand old Gertie has finally got off her colonial bum and begun an upgrade.")
Luxe does not yet offer a Cambodia guide, but the entrepreneurs of Siem Reap are doing their best to prepare for it. Want to see Angkor Wat by hot-air balloon? No problem. Is $1 too little to pay for a krama, the traditional Cambodian checked scarf? A crinkly silk boutique version can run more than $50. Want your entire stay videotaped, then edited into a feature-length film? Just ask the One's front desk.
It's in the realm of culture that Siem Reap really excels, and to a degree that would be surprising in any tourist locale, let alone one dominated by one of the greatest and most perplexing artistic achievements of all, Angkor Wat. On weekends there are cello concerts, and in December "Les Nuits d'Angkor," a blend of ballet and traditional Khmer dance, takes place in front of the temple itself. My October stay coincided with the Angkor Photography Festival, a week of exhibitions, workshops and exclusive soirées.
Just add a soothing glass of pastis, and it's easy to imagine you're in a hub of sophistication, shuttling between cocktail parties, fancy restaurants and gallery openings with a crowd of like-minded travelers. Except that everywhere in Siem Reap - and throughout Cambodia - are reminders of the country's wretched history, crushing poverty and political mismanagement. Take two steps outside your hotel, and you'll find people sleeping in the streets, some of them missing limbs. (Still, there are fewer today than in the past.)
Corruption is rampant. Villagers are routinely evicted at gunpoint from their land by the wealthy and well-connected, critics of Hun Sen's policies are liable to find themselves imprisoned, and the leader of the small political opposition, Sam Rainsy, who organized the tragic 1997 demonstration, lost his parliamentary immunity a year ago and fled the country to escape defamation charges; last month, a court convicted him in absentia. The belief among many foreigners living in Cambodia is that this constitutional monarchy is really a totalitarian kleptocracy, its officials enriching themselves at the expense of aid organizations (which heavily subsidize the government's budget), not to mention the long-suffering Cambodian people.
Which makes it all the more stunning and delightful and sad that those Cambodians are, for the most part, some of the sweetest people you'll ever meet. Show kindness to a driver, to a bellhop, to the newly middle-class guy drinking a Heineken next to you at the FCC bar, and you'll have an instant friend. After all the dehumanizing treatment they've put up with over the last 30 years, Cambodians, it seems to me, just want to be considered human beings, equals despite the financial disparity between them and the average foreign tourist.
F OR some people, it may be hard to imagine Cambodia as a luxury traveler's paradise. Are there really tourists willing to shell out hundreds, even thousands, of dollars a night to see Angkor Wat - knowing that their fancy hotels will not be like Jamaican all-inclusives, conveniently keeping the gritty outside world at bay?
"They're well read, they know the history and situation," he said. "They're looking for a Cambodian experience.
"I was a backpacker once," he added. "I still like to backpack. I don't know whether the mindset is that different. Does being able to stay in the Amansara change what you experience?"
Indeed, he was probably right. Once you ride the vintage Mercedes limo outside the gates of the Amansara compound, you are unmistakably, unavoidably in Cambodia: crumbling roads, frequent floods, implacable heat and tour guides who coolly unload personal tales of Khmer Rouge horror. It's not as if you can, by dint of a fat wallet, hide from this reality.
And why would you want to? The draw for millions of people is not just plush beds and nimble-fingered masseuses; it's these three countries' uniquely messy histories and the ways all are struggling to move forward.
In the end, what that fat wallet does get you is simply the opportunity to travel - which is, as Henri Mouhot understood, the greatest luxury of all. "Even if destined here to meet my death," he wrote in his journals, "I would not change my lot for all the joys and pleasures of the civilized world."
2009/10/29
Lingering in Laos
LUANG PRABANG, Laos – There is something eternally pleasing about lounging in a waterfront cafe, drink in hand, watching the sunset over some slow-flowing Asian river, the water like molten silver, the sky ablaze with a million crimson hues, people along the shore clad in sarongs and saffron robes.
The meandering Mekong River gently glides past Luang Prabang at sunset (top), while young monks, summoned from their sleeping places around the temple grounds by a daily drumbeat, parade through the city streets early in the morning, collecting alms (middle), and a Buddhist offering.
Especially if that place is Luang Prabang, the ancient and royal capital of Laos, a city so lost in time it really does seem like you've stepped into some bygone age, Somerset Maugham sitting at the next table over – discreetly eavesdropping on your every word – and Rudyard Kipling spinning outrageous tales at the bar.
Borrowing a line from Led Zeppelin – a band with a deep appreciation for exotic locations – the song remains the same in Luang Prabang, and thankfully so. It is a place where the only “traffic” is the pitter-patter of monks on their early-morning rounds, where the most overwhelming smell is bread being baked in the local boulangeries, and where the loudest noise is traditional music pouring through the open doors of the National Dance Theatre.
Sprawling across a thumb-shaped peninsula between the Mekong and Khan rivers, Luang Prabang is in many respects the Havana of the eastern hemisphere – preserved in an almost pristine state by a combination of politics, poverty and perhaps just dumb luck.
The die was cast in 1899 when the French moved their colonial capital down the Mekong to Vientiane, which subsequently became the country's political and commercial hub. As a result, Luang Prabang avoided much of the warfare that ravaged Laos during the latter half of the 20th century. It simply wasn't important enough to attack or destroy. When the current Communist regime took over in 1975, it didn't have the funds or the foresight to develop the ancient capital into a modern city.
But economic stagnation can sometimes breed welcome side effects. Recognizing Luang Prabang as “the best preserved traditional town in Southeast Asia,” UNESCO declared the entire city a World Heritage Site in 1995.
Attached to this designation was a comprehensive urban development plan that severely curtails new construction and the inappropriate renovation of older buildings in an effort to preserve the city's historical essence. The plan also mandates preservation of the Mekong River shoreline opposite Luang Prabang – a “natural protection zone” that serves as a deep green backdrop for the city's exotic skyline.
Over the past decade, the United Nations has supplied funds to restore the city's numerous Buddhist temples, resurface the streets with antique brick paving, erect wrought-iron lampposts like those that would have graced the city in French colonial days, and bury unsightly power lines. Meanwhile, private enterprise has kicked into high gear. Ramshackle old French colonial villas have been converted into lovely guest houses and broken-down shop houses into trendy eateries, Internet cafes and handicraft galleries.
“Luang Prabang has changed a lot just in the last year,” says Francis Engelmann, who came to Laos as a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) consultant, fell in love with city and decided to stay for good. “You now see cell phones and satellite dishes and new vehicles instead of the old Soviet cars barely hanging together. You cannot deny people the ability to raise their standard of living. But there are ways to channel development in a direction that doesn't necessarily have to include casinos and loud night life. And that's what we are hoping to do here in Luang Prabang.”
The meandering Mekong River gently glides past Luang Prabang at sunset (top), while young monks, summoned from their sleeping places around the temple grounds by a daily drumbeat, parade through the city streets early in the morning, collecting alms (middle), and a Buddhist offering.
Especially if that place is Luang Prabang, the ancient and royal capital of Laos, a city so lost in time it really does seem like you've stepped into some bygone age, Somerset Maugham sitting at the next table over – discreetly eavesdropping on your every word – and Rudyard Kipling spinning outrageous tales at the bar.
Borrowing a line from Led Zeppelin – a band with a deep appreciation for exotic locations – the song remains the same in Luang Prabang, and thankfully so. It is a place where the only “traffic” is the pitter-patter of monks on their early-morning rounds, where the most overwhelming smell is bread being baked in the local boulangeries, and where the loudest noise is traditional music pouring through the open doors of the National Dance Theatre.
Sprawling across a thumb-shaped peninsula between the Mekong and Khan rivers, Luang Prabang is in many respects the Havana of the eastern hemisphere – preserved in an almost pristine state by a combination of politics, poverty and perhaps just dumb luck.
The die was cast in 1899 when the French moved their colonial capital down the Mekong to Vientiane, which subsequently became the country's political and commercial hub. As a result, Luang Prabang avoided much of the warfare that ravaged Laos during the latter half of the 20th century. It simply wasn't important enough to attack or destroy. When the current Communist regime took over in 1975, it didn't have the funds or the foresight to develop the ancient capital into a modern city.
But economic stagnation can sometimes breed welcome side effects. Recognizing Luang Prabang as “the best preserved traditional town in Southeast Asia,” UNESCO declared the entire city a World Heritage Site in 1995.
Attached to this designation was a comprehensive urban development plan that severely curtails new construction and the inappropriate renovation of older buildings in an effort to preserve the city's historical essence. The plan also mandates preservation of the Mekong River shoreline opposite Luang Prabang – a “natural protection zone” that serves as a deep green backdrop for the city's exotic skyline.
Over the past decade, the United Nations has supplied funds to restore the city's numerous Buddhist temples, resurface the streets with antique brick paving, erect wrought-iron lampposts like those that would have graced the city in French colonial days, and bury unsightly power lines. Meanwhile, private enterprise has kicked into high gear. Ramshackle old French colonial villas have been converted into lovely guest houses and broken-down shop houses into trendy eateries, Internet cafes and handicraft galleries.
“Luang Prabang has changed a lot just in the last year,” says Francis Engelmann, who came to Laos as a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) consultant, fell in love with city and decided to stay for good. “You now see cell phones and satellite dishes and new vehicles instead of the old Soviet cars barely hanging together. You cannot deny people the ability to raise their standard of living. But there are ways to channel development in a direction that doesn't necessarily have to include casinos and loud night life. And that's what we are hoping to do here in Luang Prabang.”
Vientiane Events & Festivals
The most important festival in Laos takes place in November on the night of the full moon. It is the Bun That Luang, or That Luang Festival, and it is held at the Pha That Luang temple, which is the nation’s most sacred religious temple and the national symbol. This mid-November event culminates on the full moon, but includes a weeklong event with music, fireworks and a candlelight pageant.
Along with That Luang Festival there is also the Vientiane Trade Fair, which is held at the same time and this takes place during the day to showcase Lao products, and instill pride in Laotian workers from near and far.
Other celebrations include the Boat Racing Festival, which begins at dawn with prayer and offerings at the temples and concludes with candlelight processions. Floats that are decorated with flowers and candles are set adrift down the Mekong River, and the next day a series of boat races are held.
Less sacred but just as impressive events also occur throughout the year, and two important days are Army National Day on January 20, which includes military parades, and of course Labor International Day, or May Day on May 1.
Vientiane Museums & Attractions
Vientiane is the main cultural center of Laos and home to several interesting museums including the Sisakhet Museum, which was is among the oldest standing temples in the city. It was built in 1818 and survived several invasions, including the 1820s invasion by Siam (Thailand).
While the exhibits are labeled in Lao there are some attempts to also provide descriptions in French or English, but some of the information is far from accurate. The museum is open daily from 8am until 4pm.
It likely was not razed with the rest of the city as it was built using the Bangkok temple style. Today it is home to various sacred Buddhist artifacts. It is open daily and admission is 25 cents (US).
The Lao National Museum, which was formerly known as the Lao Revolutionary Museum, features numerous exhibits, including documents and photos of the struggle of Lao nationalists against the imperialist forces of Siam, France and the United States. The early history of Laos and the surrounding region is also chronicled in the museum, but the collections are still lacking. And while this is one of the larger museums in Laos it is actually quite small when compared to most National Museums.While the exhibits are labeled in Lao there are some attempts to also provide descriptions in French or English, but some of the information is far from accurate. The museum is open daily from 8am until 4pm.
That Luang Festival and Trade Fair in Vientiane
28 October - 02 November 2009
That Luang Festival and Trade Fair in Vientiane Capital
This religious festival is held in and around That Luang Stupa, the National Symbol of Laos, where hundreds of monks gather to accept alms and floral votives from the people.
The festival includes a grand fireworks display at night. During the day, an international trade fair, showcasing tourism in Laos and other countries from ASEAN and the Greater Mekong Sub-region. During the same period a similar festival is also celebrated at Ching Tim Stupa in Luang Namtha Province.
Siem Reap-The Gateway to Angkor Wat
Transport:How to get there
The modern Siem Reap International Airport which is located 6 kilometres from Siem Reap City is serviced by most of South East Asia's International Airlines. These airlines include Malaysia Airlines, Lao airlines, Vietnam Airlines, Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways and China Airways.
In addition Cambodia's domestic airlines provide flights to on from Phnom Penh. Daily bus operators service the route from Phnom Penh with fleets of air conditioned buses. For the same travel time (5-6 hours) a river ferry service operates from Phnom Penh port along the Tonle Sap River and Lake to Chong Khneas, 11 kilometres south of Siem Reap City overload from Thailand the most direct route to Siem Reap is through the crossing at Poi pet. A large section of the road from Poi pet is still under construction so expect a bumpy ride.
How to get round:
The tuk-tuk is the most widely used form of transport around the city and surroundings. Taxis and small buses run tours to the temples and for the more energetic tourist, bicycles can be hired from accommodation sites. It is not possible to hire cars around the city.
Where to Stay:
No matter what your budget there is suitable, accommodation for everyone, from the $5 guesthouse to the $500 luxury hotel. The luxury, and in most cases new, hotels are mainly located along the road between the Siem Reap International Airport and the City centre. The cheaper hotel and guesthouse accommodation is located in the Tophel Village area or the east of the Siem Reap River over the Stone and Wat Bo Bridges in Wat Bo. In the Old Markets area there is also guesthouse accommodation on the other side of the river across the Old Market Bridge in Wat Damnke.
Where to Eat:
The area around the Old Market is the centre of the town's restaurant trade. There is a wide variety of cuisine available including traditional Khmer, Thai, Vietnamese, French, Indian and Italian Another choice is the Butterflies Garden Restaurant which is located over the Siem Reap River Bridge to the north of the Old Market. Besides its Khmer menu, the restaurant houses over 1500 tropical butterflies in a delightful garden setting.
What to see:
While the major attraction of this northern area of Cambodia is the Angkor Temples, the area has developed other sites for the tourist. Visit the modern Angkor National Museum, with its display of 1000 Buddha Images and galleries. This museum highlights the artefacts, history and culture of the Angkor. Further out of town the Cambodian landmine Museum gives an insight into Cambodia's landmine problem and the work of one man backing these issues. The Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary at the northern end of Tonle Sap Lake is a popular bird watching site and a habitat for over 100 variations of water birds.
Where to Shop:
To the casual observer the Old Market of Phsar Chase offers the traditional souvenir range to visitors and tourists. However the immediate area around the Old Market is dotted with art galleries and stylish boutiques offering genuine quality to shoppers.
Entertainment:
Daytime and sunset tours on the Tonle Sap Lake take in the floating villages. For a bit more adventure Balloon Flights and Helicopter rides offer aerial tours of the Angkor Wat temples from their base sited between the Angkor Wat Park and the airport.
Cambodia Travel Guide
Cambodia is rich in history, culture and amazing tourism resources. Cambodia also provides visitors with a variety of once undiscovered cultural and historical attractions throughout the Kingdom and the dual theme guiding Cambodia tourism is "Culture and Nature". But there are lot of things you should know before discover this beautiful country…
Passport and Visas:
Cambodia has very liberal visa regulations. It is meant to say a valid passport and visa are required for entry. Visas can be obtained at Phnom Penh International Airport or Siem Reap (Angkor) Airport. All travelers have to do is bring along two passport size photos and fill up visa application. A one-month tourist visa costs US$20 while a business visa costs US$25.00. Visa application form will be provided on inbound flights. Visas are also available at Thai/Cambodian overland border crossing.
Currency:
Riel is the Cambodia’s currency. To check for the today’s exchange rate, please refer to our GoCambodia’s front-page, located top right page. However the US dollar is widely accepted.
Transportation:
· To and From Cambodia: Most tourists are flying into the International Airports at either Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. Recently a growing numbers of visitors are also arriving overland from Cambodia and Thailand.
· On arrival, Motorcycle taxis (Motodub) and taxis can be rented just outside the arrival lobby. From Phnom Penh International airport to anywhere in Phnom Penh will cost you $7.00 while Motordub is charging $1.00 to $2.00. The distance is about 8 kilometers to town.
Hotel:
Room rate is starting from $3 to $200 per night. Whether you prefer to stay at Guest Houses with no air-con but fan, a motel style will cost you from $10 to $45 or you may stay at one of the 5 stars hotel e.g. Cambodiana, Le Royal or Inter-Continental. The cost of $10 and up will equip with air conditioner, refrigerator and a cable TV.
Tipping and Bargaining:
Tipping is not expected in Cambodia but if you meet with exceptional services or kindness, a tip is always appreciated. Salaries remain extremely low in Cambodia. Bargaining is the rule in the markets, when you are hiring vehicles or buying things. A persuasive smile and a little friendly personality is usually enough to get a good price.
The tourist behavior code is written with the intention to minimize any that may arise between tourists and residents due to differences in language and customs. It is also to reinforce and even renew a sense of pride in the local people, their culture and provide an opportunity for tourists to learn, appreciate and respect the Khmer culture. It aims to inform tourists about the local society, its customs, dress code and acceptable behavior in religious and other places.
Swakum ! Welcome !
Welcome to the Kingdom of Cambodia. It makes no difference whether you are here on business or pleasure. You are in for a treat. You will catch a glimpse of the Khmer people, their history, culture and nature through the pristine beaches, natural landscapes, quaint villages, exotic traditional dances, the world famous Angkor complex and archaeological treasures.
Proper Greetings
Cambodians traditionally greet each other by joining their hands together in front of their chest and bowing often (Chum Reap Suor) followed by the western practice of shaking hands.Although men tend to shake ands with each other, women usually use the traditional greeting with both men and other women. It is considered acceptable for foreigners to shake hands with Cambodians of both sexes. When you are invited to a gathering, it is polite to make an effort to properly greet the
people you meet on your arrival.
· You should respond to greetings from others. It is considered disrespectful not to return greetings by other people.
· When you enter pagodas (wats) sit with your feet to the side rather than in lotus position, then you join both hands together under chin and bow three times to the floor. Always be seated when the monks are seated.
Photography
There are many photographic shops in Cambodia, offering international standard services. Be sure to take plenty of photographs so you can take back good memories of the Kingdom. Photographers are free to shoot almost everything. However, a few principles should be observed.
· If photographing local people, always ask their permission first. Most of them will be happy to pose for you.
· Taking photographs of military bases and other designated security areas is prohibited.
· Ask permission before taking photos inside pagodas, royal palaces, other sacred places or special events.
Visiting Pagodas (Wats) and other religious and traditional places
The official religion of Cambodia is Theravada Buddhism, which is also practiced in neighboring countries like Laos, Thailand, Myanmar and Sri Lanka. The sight of a saffron-robed monk is common throughout the Kingdom and almost every village had a pagoda (wat).
· Visitors should dress neatly in all religious places. They should never go shirtless, in shorts, hot pants or other unsuitable attire.
· Shoes, sandals and a hat should be removed when entering a mosque or a pagoda (wat) where Buddhist images are kept. Each Buddha image, large or small, well kept or in ruins, is regarded sacred.
· Never climb onto a Buddha or photograph a Buddha inside a temple without asking permission. Always be respectful when viewing a Buddha image.
Tipping
There is no regulation on tipping in Cambodia. However, tipping is greatly appreciated as salaries are low. The value of the tip is optional, depending on individual generosity. It should commensurate with the level of service rendered.
A small present, instead of a tip, is greatly appreciated.
Shopping
Bargaining is a way of life in Cambodia and many shops will offer discounts after negotiation. Cambodia is noted for its handicrafts - handmade articles such as silk materials, wood carvings, stone copies of Khmer art, silver items and jeweler are worth buying. It is illegal to export any antique art objects.
Personal Behavior
Polite behavior is welcome everywhere. What is considered polite in other countries is probably considered polite in Cambodia too. However, there are few customs, social and religious taboos.
· Cambodians admire a calm and considered approach to all aspects of life. Open show of temper and anger should be avoided.
· It is considered a grave insult to touch another person's head, even if is meant as a friendly gesture.
· Use the right hand to accept things or shake hands.
· It is considered rude to point your foot at a person or object.
· Keep an open mind and do not demand much from your host. Loud voices and boisterous behavior are considered impolite. Smiling and nodding establishes good intent.
· Public displays of affection between men and women are frowned upon.
If you like someone to come over to you, motion with your whole hand, palm down. Do not signal with your finger.
· When picking your teeth with a toothpick after a meal, it is considered polite to hold the toothpick with one hand and to cover your open mouth with the other.
· In private homes, it is polite to remove your shoes when entering the house.
· Be appreciative of people who appreciate
· By observing the behavior code, you can thoroughly enjoy your stay in Cambodia and take home pleasant memories.
Things to do in Vientiane
I recently visited Vientiane which is the capital city of Laos and I was definitely positively surprised by the charming and somewhat unique destination.
There is a heavy French influence in this city and together with the Asian atmosphere it creates a lovely environment. It is a relatively small city and cannot be compared in size to Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur but it does have a lot of historic and cultural sights which tourists can visit.
Buddha Park
The Buddha Park is located just outside of the city and it is filled with Buddhist images and art pieces. Some of the older items date back over five hundred years ago. This attraction is open daily from 09:00 until 16:00.
Lao National Museum
The premier place to learn more about the history and culture of Laos is at the excellent Lao National Museum. A lot of attention is also paid to the general Mekong region and the Hmong which are the local tribe’s people. You will also find a lot of information about the various different wars in which the country has been involved. The Lao National Museum is open to the public daily from 08:00 until 12:00 and from 13:00 until 16:00.
Hin Khana Waterfalls
The Hin Khana Waterfalls is a very popular destination for both local residents as well as tourists. Many local citizens visit this attraction with their family for picnics and lots of activities. There is a wonderful area for swimming and you will find plenty of stands and other hawkers selling a wide range of food items and beverages. You can enter the area daily from 09:00 until 18:00.
Ho Phra Keo
One of the most impressive temples in Vientiane is the Ho Phra Keo temple. It was constructed nearly five hundred years ago by King Xaisetathirat. A wonderful museum is housed inside Ho Phra Keo which displays a lot of historic religious and cultural Lao artifacts.
Golf Courses
If you enjoy playing golf then there are a number of well maintained and rather inexpensive golf courses which you can visit during your vacation. One of the most popular golf courses in Vientiane is the KM6 course which is visited by many of the local expats.
There is a heavy French influence in this city and together with the Asian atmosphere it creates a lovely environment. It is a relatively small city and cannot be compared in size to Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur but it does have a lot of historic and cultural sights which tourists can visit.
Buddha Park
The Buddha Park is located just outside of the city and it is filled with Buddhist images and art pieces. Some of the older items date back over five hundred years ago. This attraction is open daily from 09:00 until 16:00.
Lao National Museum
The premier place to learn more about the history and culture of Laos is at the excellent Lao National Museum. A lot of attention is also paid to the general Mekong region and the Hmong which are the local tribe’s people. You will also find a lot of information about the various different wars in which the country has been involved. The Lao National Museum is open to the public daily from 08:00 until 12:00 and from 13:00 until 16:00.
Hin Khana Waterfalls
The Hin Khana Waterfalls is a very popular destination for both local residents as well as tourists. Many local citizens visit this attraction with their family for picnics and lots of activities. There is a wonderful area for swimming and you will find plenty of stands and other hawkers selling a wide range of food items and beverages. You can enter the area daily from 09:00 until 18:00.
Ho Phra Keo
One of the most impressive temples in Vientiane is the Ho Phra Keo temple. It was constructed nearly five hundred years ago by King Xaisetathirat. A wonderful museum is housed inside Ho Phra Keo which displays a lot of historic religious and cultural Lao artifacts.
Golf Courses
If you enjoy playing golf then there are a number of well maintained and rather inexpensive golf courses which you can visit during your vacation. One of the most popular golf courses in Vientiane is the KM6 course which is visited by many of the local expats.
Laos Travel Tips
Business Hours
Banks: 08:30 to 14:00, Monday to Friday
Shops: 08:00 to 16:00, daily
Markets: 06:00 to 17:00, daily
Government Offices: 07:30 to 11:30 and 14:00 to 17:00, Monday to Friday
Business Centres: 08:00 to 12:00 and 13:00 to 16:00, Monday to Friday Cautions
Despite being a friendly and laid-back Buddhist country, Laos has a few unique hazards which visitors need to be aware of before arrival. Violent crime against foreigners is rare, but petty theft happens as often as you leave something unattended. Laos is an impoverished country, and desperate times create desperate people. Keep your valuables with you at all times, as even your guesthouse room should not be considered safe. Lately, bag snatchers have been plaguing Luang Prabang, so be extra careful after dark when walking around.
Political tensions are very mild in Laos and even major festivals and religious events rarely see any outbreaks of violent. Most visits are completely trouble-free, but buying travel insurance will cover any unforeseen incidents of theft.
Police: 191
Electricity: 220v/50Hz
Health
Visitors don’t need any special vaccinations to enter Laos, but it’s wise to ensure you are up to date with standard inoculations before you arrive. Hepatitis B is pervasive across the country, and dengue fever, tuberculosis and Japanese encephalitis often appear. Some rivers and lakes contain leptospirosis and schistsomiasis, so use care when swimming in fresh water.
The water in Laos is not safe to drink, with the exception of bottled water. Use bottled water for everything, even brushing your teeth. Bottled water is very cheap and can be found everywhere. Contaminated food is another thing to watch out for. Street food can be unclean, so make sure it’s been thoroughly cooked. The popular spicy papaya salad is tasty, but uncooked. Even the locals occasionally get stomach pains after eating this popular Laos dish.
Should you get a stomach bug, there are basic pharmacies in most of the larger towns. If anything more serious befalls you, it is suggested that you catch the next plane to Bangkok or Chiang Mai for treatment. Medical care in Laos is primitive, and often unavailable outside o the capital or Luang Prabang. There is one 24-hour medical clinic in Vientiane named Mahosot Hospital which is your best option in the capital. Travel insurance is an excellent way to cover the cost of any unexpected trips to the hospital.
Mahosot Hospital: +856 21 214022
Emergency services: 195
Language
The national language in Laos is Lao, which is similar to Thai. Those Lao who work in tourism industry can speak English, but once you get into the countryside only Lao is spoken. Some of the older Laotians can speak French, due to the colonisation of Laos by France in the 1950s. Currency
The official currency in Laos is the kip. Banknotes come in denominations of 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000 and 20,000 kip. There are no coins in Laos. In addition to kip, almost every business will accept Thai baht and US dollars.
Currency Exchange
With a currency exchange rate that consistently hovers around 10,000 kip to 1 US dollar, visitors should be careful not to exchange too much cash at any time, unless they want to be carrying around brick-loads of kip banknotes. Laos is primarily a cash country, so you won’t be able to use your credit or ATM card very often. Only travel shops in large towns and big name hotels accept credit cards. There are a couple of international ATM machines in the capital Vientiane, and one ATM in Luang Prabang but few others around the country. Don’t count on using your card at all during a trip to Laos.
The best place to exchange cash is at the bank or one of the bank-sponsored currency exchange offices. Many travel shops and guesthouses will exchange money as well, but at whatever rate they choose. Since you can use US dollars and Thai baht as easily as local kip, it’s smart to keep a variety of small bills on your person. Try and keep small bills, because shopkeepers commonly don’t have change for anything larger than US$2.
Customs
Visitors to Laos may bring: 500 cigarettes, 100 cigars or 500 grams of tobacco; 1 litre of alcohol and two bottles of wine; and as much money as they want into the country. Customs officials are very lax, but keep in mind that you are not allowed to take any Buddhist relics or certain antiques out of the country. Etiquette
Laos people are some of friendliest you’ll ever meet, but due to language barriers it may be hard to get to know any of them intimately. Despite the country’s brutal wartime past, Laotians are eager to open up to the outside world and welcome foreigners.
It will go a long way if you learn a few local social rules before visiting Laos. The first thing to remember is that Laotians are very conservative people. You will rarely see a Laotian baring skin above the elbow or below the calf. Long shorts and t-shirts are acceptable for foreigners, but anything too revealing will be considered rude.
Public displays of affection are also taboo in Laos. Reserve the hand holding, hugging and kissing for the privacy of your room. Women need to be very careful when dealing with monks. A woman of any nationality is not permitted to touch a monk of any age, or even hand something directly to a monk. These are serious rules, so try and avoid any physical contact with monks if you are a woman. Striking up a conversation with a monk however is fine.
When you enter a temple or someone’s home in Laos, remember to remove your shoes. The traditional greeting in Laos is the wai, similar to the Thai greeting. Most Laotians don’t shake hands; they put their hands together at chest level and slightly bow their head. The feet are the lowest part of the body, and the head the highest. Don’t ever touch someone on the head, even children. Don’t use your feet to point at something or raise them higher than the floor. Pointing with your finger is also considered rude; use your palm to indicate something.
Laotians take great pride in keeping a cool head in any situation. You will inevitably encounter a frustrating moment during your travels due to communication barriers, social customs or the heat. Getting angry only makes things worse; relax and deal with things calmly. Laos moves at a glacial pace, so leave your impatience at home. Fortunately, Laotians are very tolerant people, so even if you make a major social mistake, a wai and a apology will smooth things over.
Dining Etiquette
There are very few rules when it comes to eating in Laos. Meals are usually shared among people at a table or on the floor. Each person will get their own basket of sticky rice, but the main dishes are put in the middle of the table for communal use. Dining Lao-style is a wonderful way to try more than one dish. Tipping is beginning to catch on in the big cities like Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Leaving your change as a tip is always a safe bet. Otherwise, 5 to 10 per cent is considered generous.
Visa and Passports
Unless you are a citizen of an ASEAN country, you will need to purchase a tourist visa for your visit. A 15-day tourist visa can be arranged upon arrival at all airports and most border crossings. If you want a 30-day visa, you’ll need to apply ahead of time at your nearest Lao embassy. Most travel shops in neighbouring countries such as Thailand can also provide this visa service for you. It takes between three to five days to complete the process. Tourist visas can be extended twice but extensions can only be made in Vientiane.
River, which runs for 1800km along the western border of the country. A devoutly Buddhist nation, Laos has opened up to provide travellers with an opportunity to experience the diversity, tradition and natural beauty of the country.
Banks: 08:30 to 14:00, Monday to Friday
Shops: 08:00 to 16:00, daily
Markets: 06:00 to 17:00, daily
Government Offices: 07:30 to 11:30 and 14:00 to 17:00, Monday to Friday
Business Centres: 08:00 to 12:00 and 13:00 to 16:00, Monday to Friday Cautions
Despite being a friendly and laid-back Buddhist country, Laos has a few unique hazards which visitors need to be aware of before arrival. Violent crime against foreigners is rare, but petty theft happens as often as you leave something unattended. Laos is an impoverished country, and desperate times create desperate people. Keep your valuables with you at all times, as even your guesthouse room should not be considered safe. Lately, bag snatchers have been plaguing Luang Prabang, so be extra careful after dark when walking around.
Political tensions are very mild in Laos and even major festivals and religious events rarely see any outbreaks of violent. Most visits are completely trouble-free, but buying travel insurance will cover any unforeseen incidents of theft.
Police: 191
Electricity: 220v/50Hz
Health
Visitors don’t need any special vaccinations to enter Laos, but it’s wise to ensure you are up to date with standard inoculations before you arrive. Hepatitis B is pervasive across the country, and dengue fever, tuberculosis and Japanese encephalitis often appear. Some rivers and lakes contain leptospirosis and schistsomiasis, so use care when swimming in fresh water.
The water in Laos is not safe to drink, with the exception of bottled water. Use bottled water for everything, even brushing your teeth. Bottled water is very cheap and can be found everywhere. Contaminated food is another thing to watch out for. Street food can be unclean, so make sure it’s been thoroughly cooked. The popular spicy papaya salad is tasty, but uncooked. Even the locals occasionally get stomach pains after eating this popular Laos dish.
Should you get a stomach bug, there are basic pharmacies in most of the larger towns. If anything more serious befalls you, it is suggested that you catch the next plane to Bangkok or Chiang Mai for treatment. Medical care in Laos is primitive, and often unavailable outside o the capital or Luang Prabang. There is one 24-hour medical clinic in Vientiane named Mahosot Hospital which is your best option in the capital. Travel insurance is an excellent way to cover the cost of any unexpected trips to the hospital.
Mahosot Hospital: +856 21 214022
Emergency services: 195
Language
The national language in Laos is Lao, which is similar to Thai. Those Lao who work in tourism industry can speak English, but once you get into the countryside only Lao is spoken. Some of the older Laotians can speak French, due to the colonisation of Laos by France in the 1950s. Currency
The official currency in Laos is the kip. Banknotes come in denominations of 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000 and 20,000 kip. There are no coins in Laos. In addition to kip, almost every business will accept Thai baht and US dollars.
Currency Exchange
With a currency exchange rate that consistently hovers around 10,000 kip to 1 US dollar, visitors should be careful not to exchange too much cash at any time, unless they want to be carrying around brick-loads of kip banknotes. Laos is primarily a cash country, so you won’t be able to use your credit or ATM card very often. Only travel shops in large towns and big name hotels accept credit cards. There are a couple of international ATM machines in the capital Vientiane, and one ATM in Luang Prabang but few others around the country. Don’t count on using your card at all during a trip to Laos.
The best place to exchange cash is at the bank or one of the bank-sponsored currency exchange offices. Many travel shops and guesthouses will exchange money as well, but at whatever rate they choose. Since you can use US dollars and Thai baht as easily as local kip, it’s smart to keep a variety of small bills on your person. Try and keep small bills, because shopkeepers commonly don’t have change for anything larger than US$2.
Customs
Visitors to Laos may bring: 500 cigarettes, 100 cigars or 500 grams of tobacco; 1 litre of alcohol and two bottles of wine; and as much money as they want into the country. Customs officials are very lax, but keep in mind that you are not allowed to take any Buddhist relics or certain antiques out of the country. Etiquette
Laos people are some of friendliest you’ll ever meet, but due to language barriers it may be hard to get to know any of them intimately. Despite the country’s brutal wartime past, Laotians are eager to open up to the outside world and welcome foreigners.
It will go a long way if you learn a few local social rules before visiting Laos. The first thing to remember is that Laotians are very conservative people. You will rarely see a Laotian baring skin above the elbow or below the calf. Long shorts and t-shirts are acceptable for foreigners, but anything too revealing will be considered rude.
Public displays of affection are also taboo in Laos. Reserve the hand holding, hugging and kissing for the privacy of your room. Women need to be very careful when dealing with monks. A woman of any nationality is not permitted to touch a monk of any age, or even hand something directly to a monk. These are serious rules, so try and avoid any physical contact with monks if you are a woman. Striking up a conversation with a monk however is fine.
When you enter a temple or someone’s home in Laos, remember to remove your shoes. The traditional greeting in Laos is the wai, similar to the Thai greeting. Most Laotians don’t shake hands; they put their hands together at chest level and slightly bow their head. The feet are the lowest part of the body, and the head the highest. Don’t ever touch someone on the head, even children. Don’t use your feet to point at something or raise them higher than the floor. Pointing with your finger is also considered rude; use your palm to indicate something.
Laotians take great pride in keeping a cool head in any situation. You will inevitably encounter a frustrating moment during your travels due to communication barriers, social customs or the heat. Getting angry only makes things worse; relax and deal with things calmly. Laos moves at a glacial pace, so leave your impatience at home. Fortunately, Laotians are very tolerant people, so even if you make a major social mistake, a wai and a apology will smooth things over.
Dining Etiquette
There are very few rules when it comes to eating in Laos. Meals are usually shared among people at a table or on the floor. Each person will get their own basket of sticky rice, but the main dishes are put in the middle of the table for communal use. Dining Lao-style is a wonderful way to try more than one dish. Tipping is beginning to catch on in the big cities like Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Leaving your change as a tip is always a safe bet. Otherwise, 5 to 10 per cent is considered generous.
Visa and Passports
Unless you are a citizen of an ASEAN country, you will need to purchase a tourist visa for your visit. A 15-day tourist visa can be arranged upon arrival at all airports and most border crossings. If you want a 30-day visa, you’ll need to apply ahead of time at your nearest Lao embassy. Most travel shops in neighbouring countries such as Thailand can also provide this visa service for you. It takes between three to five days to complete the process. Tourist visas can be extended twice but extensions can only be made in Vientiane.
River, which runs for 1800km along the western border of the country. A devoutly Buddhist nation, Laos has opened up to provide travellers with an opportunity to experience the diversity, tradition and natural beauty of the country.
Top 10 Favourite Places in Laos
Top 10 Favourite Places to Stay in Laos
Laos is a stunning country to visit especially if you are after a unique travel experience. Laos is rich in culture with several places such as Luang Prabang being designated as world heritage sites. The country is very safe and the people are incredibly hospitable.
Accommodation is improving and Laos has some excellent places to stay whether staying in the city or a secluded hideaway far away from it all in the mountains or on one of its many rivers. The Capital Vientiane and the world heritage city of Luang Prabang have some great quality hotels some with exquisite colonial charm and all with a genuine friendly service. Getting away to countryside offers stunning views of the countryside. This list is not in any particular order as different hotels offer different experiences some offering the best facilities and others offering the best views. Here are my favourite ten places to stay in Laos taking in a varied selection from across the country.
Seng Arun Bungalows
Set on the banks on the Mekong on Done Khone Island these are small family run bungalows, they are pretty basic in western terms as there is still no electricity on the Island, but the wooden styled bungalows are comfortable, all with en suite showers. They overlook the old French Railway Bridge, with their excellent balconies the day could be spent relaxing on a hammock with a book and enjoying the great view.
La Residence Phou Vao
Set in the World Heritage City of Luang Prabang the city is full of old colonial charm and La Résidence Phou Vao Hotel complements this charm, built in the 1950's and renovated in 2001 it is set at the top of Vao hill. The hotel gives stunning views of the surrounding mountains of Luang Prabang as well as Phou Si Temple and the town. It also offers first class facilities and amenities such as a spa and swimming pool. The hotel uses traditional rosewood, cotton and silk so that the modern facilities and rooms do not lose their tradition feel.
Vansana Resort
Vang Vieng is a truly great town lying on the Nam Song River with stunning limestone karsts to its west. Vang Vieng was previously known as a backpacker town with cheap basic accommodation and lots of adventure activities to choose from. There are now however more upmarket places to stay now inviting a different class of tourist. The Vansana Resort is one of these on these built on the banks of the Nam Song River and boasting excellent amenities. The rooms are excellent with private balconies where you can enjoy the view of the mountains. Or enjoy one of the facilities on offer such as a traditional massage a meal on the balcony on the river or a swim in its top rate swimming pool.
Pakbeng Lodge
A few years ago when travelling between the Thai / Laos border town of Chiang Khong / Houei Sai to Luang Prabang the two day boat trip involved a very uncomfortable overnight stay at Pak Beng. This was an unavoidable stop when taking the slow boat. Recently however the opening of the Pak Beng Lodge has changed all of that, with great views of the Mekong and great facilities it has made the two day journey to Luang Prabang and unforgettable one in the best possible way.
Chan-a-Mar Resort, Nong Khiaw
Probably one of the only luxury bungalow's in this part of Laos, set in Nong Khiaw amidst a backdrop of mountains and two rivers this place truly gives the feel of the real Laos. The owners are also set on preserving and promoting textiles of locally grown and made textiles through the GreenHeart Foundation. The bungalows have been individually designed with local materials, each with its own bathroom, hot shower and private balcony offering stunning views.
Kingfisher Lodge
This lodge is set in the stunning Xe Pian National Protected Area about 60 Km south of Pakse in Champasak Province. It has marketed itself as being an eco-lodge, and its wooden bungalows blend in with the lush forest. There is also plenty of opportunities to explore the Xe Pian National Protected Area taking an elephant ride to Ban Pho Pho or enjoying a two day trek to Ta-Ong where you will hear and maybe even see rare Gibbons and excellent birdlife.
Senesothxeun Hotel
Senesothxeun is one of the newest places in Southern Laos, taking the accommodation options on Don Khong Island to a new level, with old charm and the great aura it gives out, it is a remarkable place to stay. The rooms are all luxury with mod-cons and private balconies, this is the place to stay if you are after luxury in the heart of the natural wetlands of Si Pan Don.
Settha Palace
The Settha Palace is set in the heart of Vientiane and has to be one of the best places to stay in Laos an old colonial style hotel build in the early 1930's, the hotel has been restored and is a true masterpiece, with an abundance of old colonial charm. Facilities and service is second to none with landscaped gardens and a swimming pool where you can cool off.
Maison Souvannaphoum
This was the former home of a Lao prince, a boutique hotel set in Luang Prabang it blends in a traditional and modern style excellently. The interior design leaves no compromise with rich silk textiles draped on the walls and ceilings. The facilities are first grade with a spa, swimming pool all set amidst tropical gardens, the food is excellent with top class French and Laotian cuisine and the views from the private balconies unmatched.
La Folie Lodge
On the Island of Don Daeng near the World Heritage site of Wat Phu, this resort is top class giving you the best of both worlds, excellent facilities with a swimming pool and a great sandy beach on the Mekong but you are also on a secluded Island with a great beach on the river! You can explore the island by bicycle or by foot and there are even some old ruins to see on the Island.
Laos is a stunning country to visit especially if you are after a unique travel experience. Laos is rich in culture with several places such as Luang Prabang being designated as world heritage sites. The country is very safe and the people are incredibly hospitable.
Accommodation is improving and Laos has some excellent places to stay whether staying in the city or a secluded hideaway far away from it all in the mountains or on one of its many rivers. The Capital Vientiane and the world heritage city of Luang Prabang have some great quality hotels some with exquisite colonial charm and all with a genuine friendly service. Getting away to countryside offers stunning views of the countryside. This list is not in any particular order as different hotels offer different experiences some offering the best facilities and others offering the best views. Here are my favourite ten places to stay in Laos taking in a varied selection from across the country.
Seng Arun Bungalows
Set on the banks on the Mekong on Done Khone Island these are small family run bungalows, they are pretty basic in western terms as there is still no electricity on the Island, but the wooden styled bungalows are comfortable, all with en suite showers. They overlook the old French Railway Bridge, with their excellent balconies the day could be spent relaxing on a hammock with a book and enjoying the great view.
La Residence Phou Vao
Set in the World Heritage City of Luang Prabang the city is full of old colonial charm and La Résidence Phou Vao Hotel complements this charm, built in the 1950's and renovated in 2001 it is set at the top of Vao hill. The hotel gives stunning views of the surrounding mountains of Luang Prabang as well as Phou Si Temple and the town. It also offers first class facilities and amenities such as a spa and swimming pool. The hotel uses traditional rosewood, cotton and silk so that the modern facilities and rooms do not lose their tradition feel.
Vansana Resort
Vang Vieng is a truly great town lying on the Nam Song River with stunning limestone karsts to its west. Vang Vieng was previously known as a backpacker town with cheap basic accommodation and lots of adventure activities to choose from. There are now however more upmarket places to stay now inviting a different class of tourist. The Vansana Resort is one of these on these built on the banks of the Nam Song River and boasting excellent amenities. The rooms are excellent with private balconies where you can enjoy the view of the mountains. Or enjoy one of the facilities on offer such as a traditional massage a meal on the balcony on the river or a swim in its top rate swimming pool.
Pakbeng Lodge
A few years ago when travelling between the Thai / Laos border town of Chiang Khong / Houei Sai to Luang Prabang the two day boat trip involved a very uncomfortable overnight stay at Pak Beng. This was an unavoidable stop when taking the slow boat. Recently however the opening of the Pak Beng Lodge has changed all of that, with great views of the Mekong and great facilities it has made the two day journey to Luang Prabang and unforgettable one in the best possible way.
Chan-a-Mar Resort, Nong Khiaw
Probably one of the only luxury bungalow's in this part of Laos, set in Nong Khiaw amidst a backdrop of mountains and two rivers this place truly gives the feel of the real Laos. The owners are also set on preserving and promoting textiles of locally grown and made textiles through the GreenHeart Foundation. The bungalows have been individually designed with local materials, each with its own bathroom, hot shower and private balcony offering stunning views.
Kingfisher Lodge
This lodge is set in the stunning Xe Pian National Protected Area about 60 Km south of Pakse in Champasak Province. It has marketed itself as being an eco-lodge, and its wooden bungalows blend in with the lush forest. There is also plenty of opportunities to explore the Xe Pian National Protected Area taking an elephant ride to Ban Pho Pho or enjoying a two day trek to Ta-Ong where you will hear and maybe even see rare Gibbons and excellent birdlife.
Senesothxeun Hotel
Senesothxeun is one of the newest places in Southern Laos, taking the accommodation options on Don Khong Island to a new level, with old charm and the great aura it gives out, it is a remarkable place to stay. The rooms are all luxury with mod-cons and private balconies, this is the place to stay if you are after luxury in the heart of the natural wetlands of Si Pan Don.
Settha Palace
The Settha Palace is set in the heart of Vientiane and has to be one of the best places to stay in Laos an old colonial style hotel build in the early 1930's, the hotel has been restored and is a true masterpiece, with an abundance of old colonial charm. Facilities and service is second to none with landscaped gardens and a swimming pool where you can cool off.
Maison Souvannaphoum
This was the former home of a Lao prince, a boutique hotel set in Luang Prabang it blends in a traditional and modern style excellently. The interior design leaves no compromise with rich silk textiles draped on the walls and ceilings. The facilities are first grade with a spa, swimming pool all set amidst tropical gardens, the food is excellent with top class French and Laotian cuisine and the views from the private balconies unmatched.
La Folie Lodge
On the Island of Don Daeng near the World Heritage site of Wat Phu, this resort is top class giving you the best of both worlds, excellent facilities with a swimming pool and a great sandy beach on the Mekong but you are also on a secluded Island with a great beach on the river! You can explore the island by bicycle or by foot and there are even some old ruins to see on the Island.
Why You Should Visit Laos - 1
Laos
Imagine a sleepy French village on a drowsy afternoon at the end of summer. That is how Laos feels. Only less vibrant.
The land of crawling broadband and dawdling monks shatters – or at least quietly snuffs – the myth that southeast Asia is all tiger economy hustle and bustle. Every time a ripple of thunder breaks the stillness of the former French colony sandwiched between Thailand
and Vietnam, the electricity goes down. Forget that fruit shake you ordered, which requires a blender’s input. Better make it a Beer Lao.
Careful how you handle the currency, as Kip are next to worthless, meaning that it’s necessary to keep track of lots of zeros.
All these surplus circles mean it’s easy to get confused and tender an insultingly small amount or a fortune, then only realise the gaffe because of the look on the cashier’s face. It’s easy to feel rich with all those zeroes in your pocket, but beware, you may not notice that you accidentally blew a billion, until you don’t have the million or so necessary to buy a packet of chewing gum.
Relax. Spend a while in Laos and you may find that you start to adopt the dreamy expression worn by many of the inhabitants. Aside from the non-too-insistent pestering of hawkers and tuk-tuk drivers, pressure scarcely exists. Time elapses at the speed of a lolloping ox.
Thank or blame Communism. No reason for rush exists in a state where enterprise is vaguely frowned upon. Just like sex outside marriage. It is illegal for a man to sleep with a woman who is not his wife in this, the highly regulated People’s Democratic Republic, which even has a midnight curfew. Not that you would necessarily notice, because the curfew is enforced ever so softly and by the subtlest of soldieries.
Many travellers return repeatedly, hooked on a country that regularly wins prizes for being so laidback and enchanting, the epitome of oriental charm. Few observers have a bad word to say about Laos.
The so-called Jewel of the Mekong may, however, seem a bit constricted, given that it has a smaller population than urban Paris and few places to visit. Tourists flock to three main towns: Vientiane, the temple-infested cultural capital with the strange rhyming name, Luang Prabang, and Vang Vieng. First-class accommodation can be obtained in only the first two of these destinations – see the listings sections on page xxx for hotels, food, spas and nightlife.
While Vientiane and Luang Prabang ooze style and atmosphere, Vang Vieng is rather ramshackle. If you miss the TV show ‘Friends’ and like it broadcast louder than the thunder that regularly deafens the village, this is the place for you. Younger and/or boozier travellers will enjoy its wildly popular signature activity, ‘tubing’, which entails drifting drunkenly downriver, slotted inside a tractor tube. Tubing is worth trying once, even if you are t-total, just for the peacefully panoramic views of the mountain-lined Mekong tributary, the Nam Som. Also for the amusement of watching the antics of the young and foolish, who swing from ropes across the river and do all sorts of inadvisable and dangerously daft things with ropes and ladders.
Alternatively, board the plane to Luang Prabang and be spellbound by the radiant temples and their saffron-clad incumbents. Watch the Mekong go by between drowsy spells half-reading a book in a river-bank restaurant, or just wander the streets absorbing the unspoiled antiquity.
Laos ranks as one of the world’s poorest countries. What a pity it is not easier to throw money around, there being a limit to the number of silk scarves, stone Buddhas and bottles of snake wine you want to stuff in your luggage. Unlike most of southeast Asia, this place makes you want to spend your money.
The biggest draws are the charm of the people, the French colonial influence on the architecture and the mystique that enshrouds the old Indochinese outpost.
Laos’ landmarks, for example Buddha Park, Vientiane’s twisted sculpture theatre, are hard to fathom. Then there is the Plain of Jars. Laos’ answer to Stonehenge
, this Highlands plain is peppered with giant stone urns that defy conclusive explanation but serve as vehicles for informed speculation and fanciful guesswork. Be warned that this area contains a large amount of unexploded ordinance.
Laos has been conquered and occupied by pretty much every country on the planet except Monaco, in a history almost as blood-soaked as neighbouring Vietnam’s. After the communist Pathet Lao finally took complete control of the country in 1975 and sent the last King and Queen of Laos on a terminal visit to a re-education camp in a cave in the northeast of the country, they enforced a rigid closed-door policy that was to last more than a decade. The country has only recently opened up to tourism, so the inhabitants have yet to start to think of the visitor as no more than a mobile ATM. Laos is one of Asia’s last tourism frontiers, a country with a fascinating and largely intact cultural heritage, peopled by mostly friendly, funny and gentle folk. It can not be more highly recommended as a rewarding and relaxing destination for all travellers, regardless of the depth of their pockets.
Imagine a sleepy French village on a drowsy afternoon at the end of summer. That is how Laos feels. Only less vibrant.
The land of crawling broadband and dawdling monks shatters – or at least quietly snuffs – the myth that southeast Asia is all tiger economy hustle and bustle. Every time a ripple of thunder breaks the stillness of the former French colony sandwiched between Thailand
and Vietnam, the electricity goes down. Forget that fruit shake you ordered, which requires a blender’s input. Better make it a Beer Lao.
Careful how you handle the currency, as Kip are next to worthless, meaning that it’s necessary to keep track of lots of zeros.
All these surplus circles mean it’s easy to get confused and tender an insultingly small amount or a fortune, then only realise the gaffe because of the look on the cashier’s face. It’s easy to feel rich with all those zeroes in your pocket, but beware, you may not notice that you accidentally blew a billion, until you don’t have the million or so necessary to buy a packet of chewing gum.
Relax. Spend a while in Laos and you may find that you start to adopt the dreamy expression worn by many of the inhabitants. Aside from the non-too-insistent pestering of hawkers and tuk-tuk drivers, pressure scarcely exists. Time elapses at the speed of a lolloping ox.
Thank or blame Communism. No reason for rush exists in a state where enterprise is vaguely frowned upon. Just like sex outside marriage. It is illegal for a man to sleep with a woman who is not his wife in this, the highly regulated People’s Democratic Republic, which even has a midnight curfew. Not that you would necessarily notice, because the curfew is enforced ever so softly and by the subtlest of soldieries.
Many travellers return repeatedly, hooked on a country that regularly wins prizes for being so laidback and enchanting, the epitome of oriental charm. Few observers have a bad word to say about Laos.
The so-called Jewel of the Mekong may, however, seem a bit constricted, given that it has a smaller population than urban Paris and few places to visit. Tourists flock to three main towns: Vientiane, the temple-infested cultural capital with the strange rhyming name, Luang Prabang, and Vang Vieng. First-class accommodation can be obtained in only the first two of these destinations – see the listings sections on page xxx for hotels, food, spas and nightlife.
While Vientiane and Luang Prabang ooze style and atmosphere, Vang Vieng is rather ramshackle. If you miss the TV show ‘Friends’ and like it broadcast louder than the thunder that regularly deafens the village, this is the place for you. Younger and/or boozier travellers will enjoy its wildly popular signature activity, ‘tubing’, which entails drifting drunkenly downriver, slotted inside a tractor tube. Tubing is worth trying once, even if you are t-total, just for the peacefully panoramic views of the mountain-lined Mekong tributary, the Nam Som. Also for the amusement of watching the antics of the young and foolish, who swing from ropes across the river and do all sorts of inadvisable and dangerously daft things with ropes and ladders.
Alternatively, board the plane to Luang Prabang and be spellbound by the radiant temples and their saffron-clad incumbents. Watch the Mekong go by between drowsy spells half-reading a book in a river-bank restaurant, or just wander the streets absorbing the unspoiled antiquity.
Laos ranks as one of the world’s poorest countries. What a pity it is not easier to throw money around, there being a limit to the number of silk scarves, stone Buddhas and bottles of snake wine you want to stuff in your luggage. Unlike most of southeast Asia, this place makes you want to spend your money.
The biggest draws are the charm of the people, the French colonial influence on the architecture and the mystique that enshrouds the old Indochinese outpost.
Laos’ landmarks, for example Buddha Park, Vientiane’s twisted sculpture theatre, are hard to fathom. Then there is the Plain of Jars. Laos’ answer to Stonehenge
, this Highlands plain is peppered with giant stone urns that defy conclusive explanation but serve as vehicles for informed speculation and fanciful guesswork. Be warned that this area contains a large amount of unexploded ordinance.
Laos has been conquered and occupied by pretty much every country on the planet except Monaco, in a history almost as blood-soaked as neighbouring Vietnam’s. After the communist Pathet Lao finally took complete control of the country in 1975 and sent the last King and Queen of Laos on a terminal visit to a re-education camp in a cave in the northeast of the country, they enforced a rigid closed-door policy that was to last more than a decade. The country has only recently opened up to tourism, so the inhabitants have yet to start to think of the visitor as no more than a mobile ATM. Laos is one of Asia’s last tourism frontiers, a country with a fascinating and largely intact cultural heritage, peopled by mostly friendly, funny and gentle folk. It can not be more highly recommended as a rewarding and relaxing destination for all travellers, regardless of the depth of their pockets.
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